Last night I went to Brawn for supper. We walked along the canal and then twice along Columbia Road looking for the restaurant. It still surprises me that along with a passion for small plates, few restaurants now have signs outside to alert hungry eater to the fact that they’ve arrived!

Still arrive we did and we were warmly greeted by the hostess. The menu was so full of tasty things that I wanted to order them all and eat everything.

Quails eggs and a chunky terrine started us with a delicious bottle of cidre, a lovely touch after our walk, thirst quenching and light in alcohol and such a good match for the celery salt that came with the eggs.

The shellfish was a treat too, prawns with chilli and clams with lemon and coriander. The plaice was the only disappointment. Rather a small fish for the money and too rich a sauce. The piece of Tome de Montagne was also on the small side but the slice of almond and cherry tart quite wonderful.

The Picpoul de pinet was well chilled and so was I.

Brawn 49 Columbia Road London E2 7R 020 7729 5692

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