These were two rather different lunches, one a long leisurely Sunday lunch with friends the second a delicious, hand held, pork stuffed roll.
So I’ll begin with Edwins
Opening in the vicinity of Borough Market would seem to be great idea for anyone hoping to capture some of the foodie buzz that is found around London Bridge these days. And when I heard that this, above a pub restaurant, would have the chef from another favourite place of mine, The Riding House Cafe , I though it worth a look. Borough Market is an obviously place of pilgrimage for me and one I visit often but as it was Sunday this vibrant noisy and sometimes chaotic place was almost deserted. I had walked from my home in Islington down to St Paul’s and then over the bridge and along the river. I cut in through the market and stopped for, a to my mind, well deserved, glass of prosecco at Wright Brothers where I was tempted to have an oyster or two. I am so pleased I saved all the room for feast that awaited us at Edwins.
You have to walk a longish way past the market, down Borough High St to find the Trinity Pub which has Edwins as it’s upstair’s lodger, and as is the way of minimalist signage I had walked past the door once, before I saw someone in chef’s whites emerging which gave me a hint.
Once inside the dining room is pretty with a small bar and delightfully friendly staff. I’m not sure why it always pleases me so much when the staff are friendly, they are after all in the hospitality (sic) business but it is still not a given that you will be greeted in restaurants with a smile.
We started with some small plates that I should mention here were the gift of the management, they were good. I loved the scallops in filo and harissa, which is becoming the signature dish of this place, and the beetroot, goat curd and pomegranate. There was to my mind too much cheese on the rabbit with polenta, but I enjoyed a light and tasty ceviche plus a pork belly with today’s must have veg, the cauliflower.
For my main course I chose roast beef, well it was Sunday and I do love a roast. This was well cooked and garnished properly but let down slightly by the gravy, which wasn’t really gravy but a well constructed red wine jus that worked perfectly with my husband’s venison but was out of place on my food. You need beef gravy with roast beef. It’s that simple, anything else distracts from the fatty, beefiness of the meat. Edwins are not alone in having “one sauce that adorns two dishes” it’s a constant moan of mine at pubs throughout the land, that apart the meat was excellent. The Bouillabaisse my friends had was fish packed and well seasoned, Elisabeth is French and difficult to please but she ate every last mouthful. I mentioned the venison and I thought that superb: perfectly cooked and garnished, a really well executed dish.
I stopped there but the others had what looked like good puddings. I’d definitely go back, the room is small and inviting, the food well cooked and the walk down lends virtue to my feasting.
Upstairs at 202 – 206 Borough High Sreet London SE1 1JX 0207 403 9913
I am blessed that I live within walking distance of Exmouth Market. Think of it: Quality Chop House Moro , Morito Bonnie Gull and Blackfoot all a short stroll away. It’s only work and the size of my wallet that keeps me from eating at one or other of these places everyday. Another joy of this foodie destination is the lunchtime street food market which offers everything from African curries through Thai noodles to Moroccan wraps. Now competing with the tented stall holders, Blackfoot a pork restaurant which has consistently been receiving rave review, is offering a porchetta bun to the lunchtime crowd, and very good it is too. Think roast Blytheburgh pork, great floury bap, salsa verde, £5 ! Walk past, go in, grab a bun, walk on. Simple, but don’t forget to come back for the ribs, especially the sticky aromatic one, the gammon and pineapple and the pulled pork tacos.
46 Exmouth Market London EC1R 4QE